Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, is the crown jewel for mountaineers. Rising 29,032 feet (8,849 meters) tall, the peak is known for its danger. In the spring of 1996, the quest to climb Mount Everest resulted in one of the deadliest tragedies in the mountain’s history.
Expedition Teams
By the 1990s, climbing Mount Everest had evolved from an elite pursuit into a commercial enterprise. Guided expeditions began offering packages that made the summit accessible to less experienced climbers willing to pay substantial fees. This shift brought increased traffic to the mountain, as well as concerns about overcrowding and the preparedness of climbers who might lack the necessary high-altitude experience.
The climbing season typically spans April and May. In 1996, an unusually high number of climbers converged on Everest. The following expeditions played a part in the 1996 tragedy:
- Adventure Consultants: led by Rob Hall from New Zealand
- Mountain Madness: led by Scott Fischer from the USA
- Taiwanese National Expedition: led by Makalu Gau from Taiwan
- South African Everest Expedition: led by Ian Woodall from South Africa
- Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP): led by Mohinder Singh from India
South Col Route
Both Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness followed similar schedules along the South Col Route. Climbers arrived at Base Camp in April, beginning the process of acclimatization. Mount Everest requires climbers to ascend in stages. The journey to the summit involves a series of camps, each serving as a critical waypoint for rest, acclimatization, and preparation.
The South Col Route’s five camps are listed below.
- Base Camp (5,364 meters / 17,598 feet): located at the foot of the mountain
- Camp I (6,065 meters / 19,900 feet): reached after navigating the treacherous Khumbu Icefall
- Camp II (6,400 meters / 21,000 feet): serves as an Advanced Base Camp
- Camp III (7,200 meters / 23,600 feet): located on the Lhotse Face
- Camp IV (7,920 meters / 26,000 feet): marks the beginning of the “Death Zone“
The Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) team and the Taiwanese National Expedition climbed from the north side using the North Col Route.
The Summit Attempt
The teams planned their summit attempts for May 10, 1996, targeting a window of good weather. Weather forecasting on Everest is notoriously difficult. While some forecasts indicated the possibility of a storm, the information was not definitive. Relying on their experience and the data available, the expedition leaders decided to proceed with their summit bids.
Despite the potential benefits of collaboration, there was limited coordination between the different expeditions. Concerns arose about the number of climbers attempting the summit simultaneously, which could lead to bottlenecks at critical points and delays that might prove dangerous.
A turn-around time of 2:00 p.m. had been established. The rule was that climbers must reach the summit of Mount Everest by 2:00 p.m. or they must turn around and descend. This is a safety protocol intended to ensure they could descend before nightfall and worsening weather.
Climbers departed from Camp IV on the South Col shortly before midnight on May 9, embarking on the final push to the summit. Initially, the ascent proceeded smoothly under clear skies. But as the ascent continued, several issues emerged. Bottlenecks developed at critical points like the Hillary Step, a narrow and steep section near the summit. Delays were exacerbated by the absence of fixed ropes that were supposed to be installed in advance. Guides and Sherpas had to set up these ropes on the spot, causing significant time losses. Despite not reaching the summit by 2:00 p.m., teams continued to push past the turnaround time, overcome by their desire to reach the top.
Several climbers from different expeditions reached the summit of Mount Everest in the late afternoon. Rob Hall of Adventure Consultants was among the first to reach the summit around 2:45 PM. Scott Fischer, leading the Mountain Madness expedition, reached the summit approximately 3:45 PM. The Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) team reached the summit around 4:00 PM via the Northeast Ridge.
The Onset of the Storm
In the late afternoon, a sudden and severe storm arrived on the mountain. High winds and heavy snowfall drastically reduced visibility and temperature. Climbers found themselves in whiteout conditions, struggling to locate fixed ropes and the route back to Camp IV.
Physical exhaustion from the ascent, combined with the effects of high altitude, impaired their judgment and ability to navigate. Groups became separated, and communication broke down as radio batteries failed in the extreme cold.
Efforts to coordinate rescues and provide assistance were hampered by malfunctioning equipment and the inability to establish clear communication between climbers and Base Camp. Misunderstandings about the locations and statuses of team members hindered effective response efforts, leaving many climbers vulnerable to the elements.
The Tragic Outcomes
The disaster resulted in the deaths of eight climbers over May 10 and 11.
Rob Hall, the experienced leader of Adventure Consultants, waited for one client, Doug Hansen, near the summit. Hansen was a postal worker from Seattle attempting his second Everest summit. When they began their descent, Hansen became incapacitated due to exhaustion and the effects of altitude. Hall refused to leave him behind. They became stranded near the South Summit, just below the peak. Hall communicated via radio with Base Camp, detailing their dire situation. In his final transmissions, he spoke to his wife, expressing love and farewell. Both succumbed to hypothermia and died on the mountain.
Andy Harris, a guide with Adventure Consultants and a fellow New Zealander, became disoriented on the descent. Harris was last seen by other climbers heading back up the mountain, attempting to assist Hall and Hansen. In the chaos of the storm, he vanished, and it is presumed that he fell from the ridge or succumbed to the elements. His body was never recovered.
Yasuko Namba, a client of Adventure Consultants, was a 47-year-old Japanese businesswoman and an experienced climber. She reached the summit late in the day, fulfilling her dream of climbing all Seven Summits. However, on the descent, she became overwhelmed by exhaustion and the onset of hypothermia. Namba died alone on the mountain.
Scott Fischer, the leader of Mountain Madness, exhibited signs of fatigue and possible illness during the descent. His condition deteriorated rapidly. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide on his team, found Fischer and attempted to assist him, but Fischer insisted that Boukreev save himself and help others. Fischer was left in a sheltered spot near the route, but he did not survive the night.
Tsewang Paljor, a member of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) expedition from India, was part of a three-man summit team attempting Everest from the Tibetan side. Paljor reached the summit in the late afternoon, but on the descent, he and his teammates were caught in the storm. Paljor sought shelter in a small cave and died there. His body became known as Green Boots, named after his bright footwear, and served as a grim landmark on the route for many years.
Tsewang Samanla, the leader of the Indian team, shared the same fate. During their descent, Samanla became separated from other team members in the storm. His body was never found, but it is believed that he died somewhere along the Northeast Ridge.
Dorje Morup, the third member of the Indian summit team, also became stranded on the descent due to the storm. He managed to radio Base Camp, reporting his critical condition and pleading for help. Despite efforts to guide him back remotely, he succumbed to the harsh conditions.
Chen Yu-Nan, a climber with the Taiwanese expedition, died on May 9, a day before the main disaster unfolded. While descending through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, Chen slipped and fell into a crevasse. Despite rescue attempts, he could not be saved.
Amid the tragedy, there were remarkable tales of survival.
Beck Weathers, left for dead after losing consciousness, miraculously awoke and managed to reach Camp IV despite severe frostbite and injuries. His survival against the odds became one of the most extraordinary stories from the disaster.
Anatoli Boukreev, a guide with Mountain Madness, played a big role in rescue efforts. Descending ahead of his clients without supplemental oxygen, he later returned into the storm to search for missing climbers, ultimately saving several lives.
What Mistakes Did They Make?
Critical errors in judgment caused the disaster. First and foremost, ignoring the established turnaround time deprived climbers of the safety margin necessary to descend before nightfall and worsening weather. The overwhelming desire to reach the summit, often referred to as “summit fever,” clouded judgment and led to risky decisions.
The commercial nature of the expeditions introduced additional pressures. Success in guiding clients to the summit was vital for the reputation and financial viability of the companies. Clients, having paid substantial fees, expected to reach the summit, which may have influenced guides to take greater risks.
Limited collaboration between different teams on the mountain also hindered effective management of resources and information. Better coordination could have facilitated the fixing of ropes in advance and improved traffic flow, reducing delays. The competitive atmosphere among expeditions may have contributed to a reluctance to share information and resources.
Finally, there were equipment problems. Some climbers ran out of supplemental oxygen due to delays. Inadequate clothing and gear left others exposed to the extreme cold when the storm hit. The varied experience levels among climbers affected the pace of the ascent and descent, with less experienced climbers requiring more assistance.
The Aftermath
The disaster attracted global media attention, bringing widespread scrutiny to the practices of commercial guiding on Everest. Reports highlighted the dramatic and tragic elements of the story, sparking public interest and debate about the ethics and safety of high-altitude expeditions.
The events inspired several personal accounts that provided differing perspectives on what transpired. Journalist and climber Jon Krakauer published “Into Thin Air,” offering a detailed narrative of the disaster and raising questions about decision-making and responsibility.
Guide Anatoli Boukreev co-authored “The Climb,” defending his actions and providing an alternative viewpoint. These accounts fueled debates within the climbing community about the accuracy of representations and the assignment of blame.
The 2015 film Everest recounts the events of the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy. It captures the ordeals and decisions that led to the deaths of climbers. The movie stars Jake Gyllenhaal as Scott Fischer and Jason Clarke as Rob Hall. It was directed by Baltasar Kormákur.
In the wake of the disaster, the mountaineering community undertook a critical examination of practices on Everest. Emphasis was placed on adhering strictly to safety protocols, such as turnaround times. Expedition companies reevaluated their approaches to client screening, guide responsibilities, and resource allocation. There was a heightened focus on the ethical considerations of guiding inexperienced climbers in such a dangerous environment.
While the tragedy prompted calls for stricter regulations and greater emphasis on safety, the commercialization of Everest continued. The number of climbers attempting the summit has increased in subsequent years.
